Transform Your Seascapes with Panning: A Guide to Creating Abstract Ocean Art

Imagine turning those still seascape photos into abstract, dynamic works of art—all created on location, without the need for Photoshop or AI tricks. Panning, a technique that involves moving the camera along with your subject, is a powerful way to capture the ocean’s movement in a whole new light. Unlike traditional intentional camera movement (ICM) photography, where everything in the frame is blurred, panning strikes a balance: it keeps the subject, in this case, the waves, somewhat in focus while introducing creative motion blur in the background. It’s a refreshing approach to ocean photography, and the best part is, it’s all done in-camera.

What is Panning?

Panning is a technique where you move your camera horizontally to follow a moving subject, creating a sense of motion while maintaining some sharpness on your subject. In the case of ocean photography, panning works wonderfully with waves, allowing you to emphasize their lines, textures, and fluidity while blurring the background for a dreamlike effect.

This technique is especially useful when you want to create more abstract images that still retain a connection to reality. It’s perfect for those who want to capture the sea in a way that’s different from traditional long-exposure shots, where everything appears smooth and ethereal. Instead, panning introduces a new level of dynamism into your seascapes.

Panning doesn’t require a lot of gear or complicated settings, but it does need patience and practice. With the right timing, you can create images that evoke the constant movement and energy of the ocean, in a style that feels both intentional and artistic.

The Technique Behind Panning

The foundation of panning success is stability. A lot of beginners struggle with unwanted camera shake, which can ruin an otherwise perfectly timed shot. Here’s how you can avoid that:

1. Posture and Body Position: Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. This stance helps you maintain balance and control over your movements. Keep your upper body relaxed and let your hips do most of the work as you move your camera across the scene.

2. Using a Tripod: While a tripod isn’t necessary, it can be helpful for some photographers, especially if you’re shooting in low light or need extra stability. However, many photographers, myself included, prefer to shoot handheld for a more fluid and responsive experience. Handheld panning allows for more creative freedom to move with the waves, making your photos feel more organic.

3. Camera Settings: Set your camera to continuous shooting mode (also known as burst mode) to capture multiple frames in quick succession. This is important because the timing has to be precise—starting and stopping your camera at just the right moment can be tricky when you’re only shooting single frames. Burst mode gives you a higher chance of getting the shot you want.

4. Shutter Speed: Choosing the right shutter speed is critical for panning. For ocean photography, I typically start with a shutter speed between 1/30 and 1/5 of a second. This range allows for enough blur to convey motion while still keeping the waves discernible. But feel free to experiment depending on how much motion blur you want. The faster your shutter speed, the sharper the waves will be; the slower it is, the blurrier and more abstract the image becomes.

Tracking the Waves

One of the key skills in panning is learning how to smoothly track your subject—in this case, the waves. Begin following the wave’s movement before you press the shutter. This not only gets you into a rhythm with the motion but also ensures that your camera is moving at the same speed as the wave, minimizing shake or disruption when the shutter is pressed.

Here’s a quick breakdown of the process:

• Focus Tracking: Set your camera to continuous autofocus (AF-C or AI Servo mode) so it constantly adjusts focus on the moving waves. This is crucial for keeping at least part of the wave sharp while panning.

• Timing: Timing is everything in panning. Start shooting as the wave begins to build and continue through its crest and break. Don’t stop panning immediately after pressing the shutter—follow through with the motion to avoid jerky or abrupt movements that can result in unwanted blur.

• Burst Shooting: This is where continuous or burst mode really comes into play. By taking multiple shots while panning, you increase your chances of getting the perfect frame, where the wave’s movement is sharp and the background is smoothly blurred. It’s normal to shoot dozens of frames and only find one or two that really work. Panning is a bit of a numbers game, and the more you practice, the better you’ll get at it.

Angle Matters

When photographing waves, your angle of approach plays a significant role in the final composition. Ideally, you want to position yourself at about a 45- to 90-degree angle relative to the direction of the wave. This makes it easier to follow the wave’s motion and create that sweeping effect in your photos.

Why this angle? It allows you to capture the full motion of the wave—from its rise to its break—giving your shots a natural flow and energy. If you shoot straight on, you’re more likely to miss out on the sense of depth that a diagonal angle provides. Plus, this angle emphasizes the leading lines of the waves, drawing the viewer’s eye through the image.

Common Panning Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)

1. Choosing the Wrong Shutter Speed: One of the biggest challenges in panning is finding the right shutter speed. If it’s too fast, you won’t capture enough motion blur; if it’s too slow, everything might end up blurred. Aim for between 1/30 to 1/5 of a second, but don’t hesitate to adjust based on your conditions and desired effect. The right speed can vary depending on the speed of the waves and the available light.

2. Not Moving the Camera Smoothly: Panning is all about smooth, fluid motion. If your movements are jerky, the background won’t blur correctly, and the subject may also lose focus. Keep your body loose, and move with your hips rather than just your arms. This will help maintain consistency in your movement.

3. Ignoring the Best Light: While panning can work at any time of day, golden hour (just after sunrise or before sunset) provides soft, directional light that enhances the texture and lines of the waves. The low-angle light also helps emphasize the motion blur and gives your seascapes a warm, glowing effect. It’s the ideal time to practice this technique.

Want to see this technique in action? Check out my YouTube video where I break down each step and share some real-time examples of how to create these stunning abstract seascapes with panning:

4. Using Too Wide of a Focal Length: A common mistake is using a lens that’s too wide, which makes it harder to achieve the desired background separation and motion blur. For seascape panning, try a focal length of 50mm or longer. The compression effect of a longer lens helps to isolate the waves from the background, making the motion stand out more dramatically.

Ready to Give It a Try?

Now that you’ve got the basics down, it’s time to head out and experiment. Panning requires practice, but once you get the hang of it, the results can be stunning. You’ll find that each wave tells its own story, and no two shots are ever the same. Just remember to have fun and keep your creative vision in mind. Happy shooting!